Twist Stitch Patterns

Inspiration: one of my samples from the Stitches Textures class – square 31 from Barbara Walker’s Learn to Knit. These twist stitch pseudo cables are the kind of low-bulk patterns I want to use. Sample knit at worsted weight.

Thoughts on Reversiblity

Inspiration: knit purl patterns used in Midway

Getting the sweater lapels reversible with a cable motif as I had planned is beginning to seem daunting, but on reflection not all of the front panel will be turned back, just the portion across the neckline opening minus the overlapped button bands.

Per Shirley Paden, the neckline opening should be 40-50% of the back shoulder width, so, assuming a 2″ overlap for button bands, the maximum width of the front panel that needs to be reversible is:

separate button bands: ((16″ shoulder width x 0.5) / 2 fronts) – 1″ of button band = 3″ x 4.5 st = ~ 14 stitches

integrated button bands: ((16″ shoulder width x 0.5)  / 2 fronts) + 1″ overlap = 5″ x 4.5 st = ~23 stitches

Fourteen to twenty-three stitches in reversible patterning is entirely manageable.

First Meeting

Inspiration: the twist stitch zig-zag cables knit at worsted weight in Reverb

Saturday afternoon I met my terrific WEKP mentor for the first time — Webs in-house knitwear designer Kirsten Hipsky. It was great having a seasoned sweater designer to hash out ideas and challenges with — I am one lucky knitter. Important takeaways from this discussion with Kristin:

  • Rough estimate of how much extra yarn needed for a cabled garment: add 25% (Thanks for this Kirsten, estimating has been keeping me up nights).
  • Kirsten validated my concern about trying to sew a tubular cast-off for the full length of the sweater front plus collar – alternatives to mull over include an integrated button band, reinforced with a crochet chain stitch, or an I-cord edging.
  • Zig-zag travelling stitch is reversible, and a good alternative to a potentially messy reversible ribbed cable as there are fewer stitches to cross in any given row.
  • Saddle-shoulders work well with a center-cabled sleeve.
  • Sewn flannel pockets will not fly

Back to the sketch book for a first round of design revisions – the patterned panels are coming into focus.