Spread-collared cardigan with applied button bands, saddle shouldered set-in sleeves, set -in side-entry pockets, and a side-slit hem with a slightly dropped tail in back.
Panels of textures stitches will be featured on the fronts, back, and possibly across saddles and down the sleeves. The intent is to add textural interest without bulk or stiffness, maintaining the natural drape of a longwool knit.
The collar stitches are picked up from the back neckline while knit continuously from the front pieces, so that the collar fits like a loose fold-over turtleneck when buttoned all the way up, and like a sailor collar when unbuttoned to the sternum (as shown in the sketch).
Use: This sweater is intended for indoor or light outdoor wearing .
Fit: The intended fit is body-skimming with minimal shaping, to be worn over a blouse or jersey, low-hip length.
— double-needle pickup (button & pocket bands)
— tubular cast-on and bind-off
— short rows
— reversible, twist and/or slip-stitch cables*
— guernsey inspired knit/purl patterning
* reversible cabling may need to be abandoned if it proves too bulky when swatched.
Inspiration: Patterns for Guernseys, Jerseys & Arans by Gladys Thompson, Bárbara Walker’s stitch dictionaries.
Ten years ago, before knitting classes at WEBS, before I knew more than one way to do cast-ons and bind-offs, before I knew how to apply a button band or realized how badly I had misunderstood how to mattress stitch a seam, I decided to make myself a cabled cardigan with a wide, warm collar, franken-patterned from a hoodie with 2 1/2 pounds of Bartlett Fisherman 3-ply yarn. I made a lot of design choices that avoided things I wasn’t sure how to do. Over the years I have ripped, re-knit and grafted parts to improve the fit, but it’s still a bit of a mess, and still my favorite, most-worn, go-to sweater on a cold winter morning.
When I thought about what I wanted to do for my WEKP project, there was a light bulb moment when I realized that the sweater I most wanted to make and wear was was this one, only better — keep the aran-inspired design, versatile shape and color, but lighter, less bulky, a little less rustic, with design choices based on my preferences rather than limited knitting skills.